Kilauea's open caldera hosts a lava lake whose level rises and falls per the whims of the mountain. It emits plenty of SO
2: on the day of our visit, its sulfur dioxide pollution (500 tonnes) was the same as a
month's worth of the biggest emitter in the US (a coal-fired power station in Ohio). It hung in the air, choked the lungs, and left a funky taste in the mouth.
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